How are handmade jewels created on commission?

It often happens to receive specific requests from people who want to find out if it is possible to make a jewel on commission, something unique in design, materials and gems. The personalization of jewelry is a job that requires experience and skills, time and passion, but it is the only way to get a unique accessory made ad hoc … And we strongly believe that this is the true work of the Jeweler: create extraordinary jewelry with unique beauty that is difficult to replicate.

For the realization of this article, Blog dei Preziosi has supported the technical staff of in order to present the various stages of creation of a jewel on commission accompanied by photographs , starting from the taking charge of the order until arriving to the completion of the precious. The photographs you will see are the property of and portray a very special jewel: a chanel pendant necklace with a central magnifying glass with interchangeable lenses .

The design of the jewel

The initial phase sees the definition of the wishes of the customer, of the desires and of what we really want to achieve. In this case, jewelery can be seen exactly as a tailor-made shop: the work of making jewels on commission is neither more nor less a sartorial work. We define the measures, weights, the design of the jewel of our dreams, and only then proceed to its creation. A good jeweler is able to create any jewel the customer desires, but any realization goes through a correct design phase. For today's jewelry we created freehand drawings, but it would also be possible to create 3D computer prototypes. In the drawings in question it is possible to see the definition of the jewel structure, the internal and external diameters and the positions where the various mother-of-pearl segments and the brilliant cut diamonds (chosen by the Customer) will be inserted. The difficulty of making this masterpiece was above all the need to make the interchangeability of the various magnifying glasses possible: the jewel had to be both solid and resistant at the same time, and easy to handle in order to exchange lenses at various magnifications.

The choice of material
Once the drawing or rendering phase is finished, it is necessary to choose the material with which to make the jewel. The choice is at the discretion of the customer and obviously affects the final price: white gold, yellow, pink, platinum, or silver 925. In Italy, for gold jewelery, gold is usually used at 750/000 high (also known as gold 18kt), always nickel free, hypoallergenic, in compliance with current regulations.

The choice of precious stones
If the final jewel sees the presence, in the project, also of gems and diamonds, it immediately passes to the phase of selection and selection of precious stones . This part is undoubtedly one of the most fun and offers the greatest satisfaction: it is nice to choose diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and all kinds of gems in accordance with the needs of the customer. Depending on the budget and on the basis of the object to be realized, therefore, various possibilities are arranged, divided by color, cut quality and purity. For gems or diamonds of a certain importance and size, there is also the possibility to choose between a range of TOP quality certified by the world's leading bodies such as IGI and HRD.

The creation of tires and segments
Defined therefore design, material and stones, the next phase is that of the creation of tires (waxes) . This phase is not mandatory, but it is recommended on jewels that must be carried out with maximum precision. The tires or waxes are made by specific equipment that follow computer projects. All the various segments created are then replaced by the chosen metal through a melting operation called " lost wax casting ".

This phase consists of inserting the wax into a mold and pouring the molten material at a high temperature through a hole. This will melt the wax and take its place, becoming, once cooled, the segment that was initially in wax.

As you can see in the following photograph, after the melting phase exactly the same identical gold segments are obtained. The only processing required, once all the parts are obtained, is that of polishing with "specific pastes" and assembly of all the components. segments-gold-fusionIn the case of white gold, rhodium plating is also carried out, or a choice of palladium , a new galvanic process which gives the material a greater brilliance and allows a "shielding" from yellowing, a classic problem of white gold.

Before proceeding, we would like to underline once more the importance of the design phase (above all the computer model for making the waxes): in the case of assembly of many components, as in this case, a rough and incorrect prototyping down to the smallest details would lead to the creation of wrong waxes and therefore inaccurate segments. The incorrect dimensions would lead to the impossibility of carrying out a precise assembly, with the impossibility of proceeding to the following phases. This is why the seriousness and efficiency of the laboratory to which we rely is another fundamental factor to consider for the creation of commissioned jewels.

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